Why Tape?
When you Puppy starts teething, it can throw its ears back, resembling the ‘flying nun’ look.  If you don’t tape their ears whilst they are ‘flying’ the cartilage can often set in that position.  By taping, you are training, and hopefully setting the cartilage into the correct position.

 Some Bullmastiffs never need their ears taped at all. Others can need taping for just a week or two to correct the carriage, and yet for others, it can be a continual struggle for up to twelve months of age.

Not taping your puppy’s ears will in no way effect its health, however it does spoil the shape of a fully grown adults head, not achieving the true “square” look it is meant to.  Whether your Bullmastiff is a Pet or a Show dog, the appearance of your Bullmastiff will be greatly enhanced, if it has the correct ear carriage.  The photos below will demonstrate the difference it can make to an adult dog’s head.

This is Tiki, a red Bullmastiff Puppy at eight weeks of age.  Note that she carries her ears in the correct placement, with a fold at the top, and the bottom of the ear, which forms a ‘V’.

Here is Tiki again.  Her previous owners did not tape her ears, notice how she folds the outside corners of her ears in, not forming a ‘V’ shape as in the photo above

Tiki's ears were first taped at 16 months of age.  I thought it may have been too late to correct her ears, but considered it worth a try anyway.  You can see by the photo, that it has made a huge improvement to the overall look of her head.

Taping Techniques

Velvet to Velvet method

There are several techniques used to tape ears.  The most common is the ‘Velvet to Velvet’ Technique.

The ear is turned back onto itself, and taped into position.  The tape is usually left in place for about three days, and then carefully removed. The ears should then be examined for the correct carriage.  If the ears are still flying, then they will need to be re-taped.  I recommend leaving two days before re-taping, to give the ears a rest.


You will need a good pair of small sharp scissors, some ‘Isocol’ or other suitable cleanser, and some tape.  Some tapes simply do not work, and fall off within seconds of being positioned.  The best I can recommend is ‘Elastoplast’, the one that comes in a round red plastic container.  It is a stretchy cloth, about 2cm in width.  Others have had success with various other tapes, but this can be a trial and error thing.

If the ears get wet whilst they are taped, then you need to remove the tape and dry the ear, and re-apply the tape once the ear is completely dry.

Bonnet method

Another technique often used is the under-chin method or bonnet. 

The bottom tip of the right ear is taped to the bottom tip of the left ear, with tape continuing under the chin, joining the two ears together.  

A strip of tape is positioned on the topside of each ear, with an allowance of tape left at the bottom.

A second, large strip of tape, is positioned on the under side of the ear, facing the sticky side of the top tape. 


The sticky sides of the tape are pressed together. 

The tape is then taken under the chin, and joined to the opposite ear in the same fashion. 

Ensure that the tape is not pulled so tightly as to effect the comfort of your dog and it’s breathing.

Supervision of your puppy is necessary to make sure he does not get caught up by the tape under his chin.

Weight Method

Some people have had success by taping 20 or 50-cent coins to the bottom tip of ear, effectively, weighting down the ear. I do not recommend this method as if the pup where able to flick the coins off, they may be at risk of swallowing and choking on the coins.

Please use caution with all of these methods, ensuring that your dogs ears do not become irritated or inflamed.  Remove all tape if this occurs, and speak to your Vet or breeder before applying more.